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| California Dreamin’ | ||
| Exploring La Jolla, California, and Torrey Pines Golf Course, home of the 2008 U.S. Open. | ||
| STORY & PHOTOGRAPHS BY CHAP JACKSON | ||
That year, the “Black” course at Bethpage State Park on Long Island hosted a hotly contested U.S. Open match in which Tiger Woods ultimately prevailed. In his book Open: Behind the Ropes at Bethpage, a behind-the-scenes look at this first public-course U.S. Open, author John Feinstein describes a scene in which pro player Scott McCarron is confronted by a parking lot security guard, not to check his parking pass but to inquire as to how he would play hole number three. “I realized,” [McCarron] said, “that this had to be the first U.S. Open in history where the cops guarding the golf course had actually played it more often—a lot more often probably—than the players in the event had played it. There’s never been a U.S. Open where you could say that before.” In 2008, for only the second time in history, the U.S. Open will be played on a public course when Torrey Pines Golf Course in La Jolla, California, hosts the venerable tournament June 9 through 15. What makes a public-course U.S. Open such a special event? “That the average person can come in and experience a U.S. Open course,” says Steven E. Pelzer, executive vice president of the five-diamond rated The Lodge at Torrey Pines, which fronts on the course. “Golf needs to be more accessible—it’s good for golf. Everyone wants to play a U.S. Open course.” Well known as the site of the annual PGA Buick Invitational tournament, and as the course Tiger Woods played in his youth, Torrey Pines was designed by legendary course architect William P. Bell, Sr., and, upon his death, was completed in 1957 by his son, William F. Bell, Jr. The layout is a double 18-hole championship course—the North Course and the South Course—that takes advantage of the rambling, cliff-top bluffs overlooking the Pacific Ocean. The venue for the 2008 U.S. Open will be the South Course, which was redesigned in 2001 by another legendary golf architect, Rees Jones.
How will the reconfigured U.S. Open course play? Mark J. Woodward, the no-nonsense general manager/director of golf at Torrey Pines, says, “Wind will add one to two clubs to number 12 and other holes. Holes 15 through 18 will be good finishing holes. [The following] holes will be make-or-break holes for the leaders: number 16 is into the wind; number 17 is a par four with the wind at your back; number 18 is an ‘ouch’ hole—long tee shot to a narrow fairway between two bunkers, then 250 yards into the green, carrying water. Players absolutely must clear the water on their second shot.” What will the winning score be? Depending upon the course set-up, depth of rough, and other factors, “Par will be a good score.” The player to watch in 2008 is Tiger Woods, who won the February 2008 Buick Invitational at Torrey Pines with an eight-shot lead. Having won this tournament four years in a row, he definitely has home course advantage. But then, this is the U.S. Open . . .
The only impediment to play is the City Council of San Diego’s target ratio of 70 percent resident to 30 percent non-resident play availability, and course play will gradually be restricted as the 2008 U.S. Open date nears. About 60 to 90 days before the U.S. Open, golf carts will be banned on the South Course. The USGA gets control of the course 10 to 12 days before the tournament but public play will continue up to this time depending upon course conditions. During the U.S. Open, the North Course will be partially closed for corporate tents but the staff hopes to retain nine holes for play even while the Open is taking place. Rated a “Top 100” course by Golf Magazine, a “Must Play” course by Links magazine, and listed in Golf Digest’s “Best Golf Courses in California,” Torrey Pines offers an enticing proposition for an afternoon side trip when in San Diego or for premier corporate entertaining. Thanks to its egalitarian spirit, golfers who have already experienced its charms face the appealing prospect of watching television coverage of the 2008 U.S. Open, seeing a great like Tiger Woods step onto the tee box, and nudging a friend in the ribs and saying, “When I played that hole, . . .”
La Jolla, California At La Jolla, the cold Alaskan current brushes the rugged coast, nurturing abundant marine life and attracting harbor seals, whose antics delight spectators perched on the narrow seawall of the Children’s Pool. Deep ocean swells collide with the seawall, soaking the onlookers. In calmer water behind the seawall, seals with bicycle-horn voices bob, heads-up, in a staring match with expectant bathers for temporary right to the beach.
Except for a few short weeks locals refer to as “May Gray” and “June Gloom,” La Jolla enjoys near-perfect weather year-round, with an average temperature of 70F degrees, almost constant sunshine, and only 11.97 inches of rain annually. But, such perfection doesn’t come cheap—the average (median) home price in La Jolla is $967,000. Although Native American settlements in La Jolla date back approximately 3,000 years, modern settlement did not begin until 1887, and the area remained sparsely settled until the arrival of the nearby Santa Fe Railroad. By 1920, however, tourism and development had swelled the population to over 4,000. Contributing to the early growth of La Jolla was its most prominent resident, Ellen Browning Scripps of the Scripps publishing family. Her philanthropic largesse sealed La Jolla’s fame as a center for the arts and intellectual research. The Scripps name pervades La Jolla landmarks, most notably Scripps Institute of Oceanography, one of the world’s most important centers for ocean and earth science research. Above Scripps Institute is Birch Aquarium (www.aquarium.ucsd.edu), which brings the wonders of oceanographic study to the public and includes a 70,000-gallon kelp forest habitat tank.
For outdoor enthusiasts, La Jolla offers a multitude of activities. Surf Diva in La Jolla Shores (www.surfdiva.com) is best known for its women-only surfing clinics, but men are welcome, too. Adjacent to Surf Diva, OEX Dive and Kayak center (www.oeexpress.com) conducts diving trips into the kelp forest just offshore and sea kayaking trips along the rugged coast of La Jolla Cove. This north-facing cove, protected from rougher Pacific waves, is perfect for casual water activities and is the site of the annual Rough Water Swim in September (www.ljrws.com). A bounty of activities and entertainment options are available for the non-aquatically inclined, as well. There is, of course, the fabled Torrey Pines Golf Course, as well as the La Jolla Playhouse, which produces numerous performances May through October and has seen several of its productions win awards or move on to Broadway (www.lajollaplayhouse.com). The La Jolla Music Society (www.lajollamusicsociety.org) presents classical music performances throughout the year, and other musical events in the area include the Revelle Series, the annual SummerFest in August, and “Concerts by the Sea” programs that take place June through September. Annual events include the La Jolla Motorcar Classic and Buick Invitational golf tournament in January, La Jolla Half Marathon in April, Secret Garden Tour in May, “Movies by the Sea” in August, and the popular Gallery and Wine Walk in September.
For true relaxation, La Jolla is home to many world-renowned spas. These offer all levels of pampering from a simple pedicure to massage, exfoliation, rejuvenations, and cosmetic surgical procedures—anything to get the kinks out, beautify, and invigorate. The hub of La Jolla is Prospect Avenue, from which streets radiate inland, providing a multitude of galleries, dining, and shopping opportunities. Restaurants cater to all tastes: for classical French cuisine, Tapanade (2006 Wine Spectator Award of Excellence); for lighter fare and Asian tapas, Roppongi; for elegant dining overlooking La Jolla Cove, Azul La Jolla; for rubbing elbows with the locals, Jose’s Court Room Restaurante; and for sunset drinks overlooking the Pacific, George’s at the Cove. One must not pass up the Mediterranean flavors of Pasquale on Prospect (www.pasqualeonprospect.com), especially on days “Mama” (Gilda Angelotti) leaves her stool by the front door to make her famous pasta fazul and homemade meatballs. A late-night stop at the happening Jack’s La Jolla is a must for the young at heart. Lodging in the district is dominated by the 116-room La Valencia (www.lavalencia.com) and the 78-room Grande Colonial (www.thegrandecolonial.com), but those seeking solitude should consider Hotel Parisi, a 20-suite boutique consistently rated one of the top 100 Hotels in the world (www.hotelparisi.com). La Jolla is a particularly Californian blend of dichotomies: the old mixed with the new; an active spirit coexisting with the quiet tranquility of the Pacific; a city of infinite beauty perched above scarred cliffs; a cultural and intellectual fountainhead, and yet, a village determined to maintain a laid-back attitude toward life.
Where to StayThe Bristol A recent renovation of all 102 guestrooms and the lobby, corridors, and restaurant at this Gaslamp District boutique hotel has enhanced such luxury touches as triple-sheeted beds with down comforters, honor bars stocked with premium beverage and snack selections, complimentary WiFi, and a distinctive pop art collection, including Roy Lichtenstein’s Oval Office at guest check-in, and works by Andy Warhol, Peter Max, and Keith Haring throughout the hotel. The Grande Colonial Hotel The Grande Colonial has unveiled a $4 million restoration of the adjacent Little Hotel by the Sea (opened in 1925) and Garden Terraces (opened in 1926), adding 18 new, ocean-view suites to this historic boutique hotel. The Grand Colonial is La Jolla’s oldest original hotel, opened in 1913 as The Colonial Apartments and Hotel, and today features an outdoor heated swimming pool, concierge services, Nine Ten Restaurant & Bar, and high-speed wireless Internet service. Hotel Parisi This wellness-inspired, feng shui-designed, all-suite hotel combines serenity, style, and comfort. In addition to the standard luxury amenities, the hotel offers such unique services as a certified yoga instructor, acupuncturist, and massage therapist on staff, and an on-call clinical psychologist, with direct access to her office from each in-room phone. The hotel also features a menu of 40 diverse spa therapies with treatments performed in guest suites. Hotel Solamar This Kimpton Hotel, located in San Diego’s Gaslamp District, offers a rooftop pool, patio, and poolside cocktail lounge; complimentary high-speed WiFi in all guestrooms and public spaces; full-service business center; in-room spa services; complimentary nightly wine tastings in the lobby; and a funky, playful décor. The hotel is located a block from Petco Park and a short walk from the convention center. The Keating The Keating is the first hotel design from Pininfarina, the Italian firm behind Ferrari and Maserati, and is characterized by clean, ergonomic design punctuated by the use of historical details. The 35 “stanzas” (guestrooms) and suites were conceived without interior walls to create a “new interpretation of space,” and feature custom designed furnishings, vaulted ceilings, and cutting edge amenities like Bang & Olufsen Beo Vision electronics. Amenities include LavAzza espresso machines by Pininfarina, Italian linens by Frette, designer bathrobes by Boca Terry, and personalized “sip and crave” bars. La Valencia Hotel Situated atop La Jolla Cove and overlooking the Pacific Ocean, the Mediterranean villa-inspired La Valencia Hotel has been a fixture of the seaside community since its opening in 1926. With its classic Southern California design, La Valencia offers luxury rooms and suites as well as Ocean Villas featuring views of the ocean, La Jolla village, or the property’s lush landscaping. All accommodations feature custom furnishings and windows that open to allow in the scent of year round blooming flowers and ocean air (a unique feature among contemporary hotels). The Lodge at Torrey Pines Located along the 18th fairway and green of the Torrey Pines Golf Course, this legendary Arts and Crafts-style resort features 175 guest-rooms and suites, a full-service spa, and two restaurants. The Lodge’s claim to fame (along with its golf-centric location) is its décor—clinker-brick masonry, art glass windows and doors, Stickley furniture, William Morris wallpaper, and Tiffany reproduction lamps. The lodge’s signature restaurant, A.R. Valentien, is named after the famous painter and features the artist’s wildflower watercolors lining the walls as well The US Grant Built in 1910 by President Grant’s son Ulysses S. Grant Jr., this Belle Époque grande dame reopened in fall of 2006 after a $52 million renovation. Host to 13 U.S. presidents and innumerable notable figures, the hotel has been on the National Register of Historic Places since 1979. The hotel features 270 guestrooms and 47 suites, including two bi-level presidential suites and a penthouse suite, as well as the legendary Grant Grille and Lounge, a fitness center,a business center, in-room spa services, and high-tech event spaces. The Westgate Hotel Hallmarks of this five-star hotel include French Provincial decor and opulent public spaces showcasing 18th-century antiques, Baccarat crystal chandeliers, French tapestries, and Persian carpets. Located near the Gaslamp District, the hotel’s 223 guestrooms and suites offer city or harbor views as well as imported European furniture, down comforters and pillows, marble showers, complimentary Internet access, and complimentary overnight shoeshine, among other amenities.
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To play a U.S. Open course is a golfer’s dream, but for most of its history all U.S. Open tournaments were played on private club courses, making that dream well-nigh impossible to accomplish. All this changed in 2002 when, for the first time in its more than 100-year history, the U.S. Open was held on a public golf course.
In preparation for the U.S. Open in June, Torrey Pines has undergone numerous changes: bunkers were relocated, landing areas narrowed, and the tee box on number 13 was relocated so that players have a 249-yard carry over a scrub-filled ravine to reach the fairway. Even the grass itself was changed to meet USGA specifications for an Open tournament. The normal ryegrass fairways were converted to kikuyu grass, approaches to the greens were changed to hybrid Bermuda so a well-struck ball might land and roll onto green, and the greens themselves were changed to Poa Annua grass to increase green speeds. For the Open, the reconfigured course will play as a par 70 totaling 7,607 yards by changing holes 6 and 18 from par fives to par fours.
Because this municipal course is owned and operated by the City of San Diego, of which La Jolla is a suburb, play is not restricted and tee times are readily available with prior planning—one to seven days in advance via the Internet (
Atop the overlooking cliff, joggers stride to the rhythm of their iPods in a never-ending progression of bronze skin along a paved ribbon separating the vast Pacific Ocean from the manicured-lawn of Scripps Park, whose oddly mangled, top-blown trees inspired the drawings in Dr. Seuss’ famous children’s books. On the slope above the park, the historic, pink-walled La Valencia hotel keeps watch, its elegant rooms enveloping the famous, the infamous, and the ordinary in graceful style. The La Valencia fronts Prospect Avenue and its flowing skirt of streets spreading inland to finally wash against the heights of Mount Soledad. 
Ms. Scripps’ other contributions to the La Jolla area included arts support, hospitals, parks, and the Children’s Pool. One local story tells of a disgruntled gardener who burned down the Scripps home. To avoid a repeat incident, Ms. Scripps constructed a new home made of concrete. This home was later donated and became the basis for the Museum of Contemporary Art, an oceanfront collection of contemporary paintings, sculptures, photography, and graphic art. Most startling among the museum’s collection is a “gravity-defying” sculpture made of motor boats, surfboards, row boats, and canoes tangled in a flowing mass reminiscent of a post-Katrina beach pile-up. On the whimsical side, a yellow garden hose, actually connected to an outdoor faucet, snakes through the grounds more like evidence of a groundskeeper’s memory-lapse than a work of art. 
Above Blacks Beach is the Torrey Pines Glider Port. Using the rush of wind coming up the cliff face off the Pacific, hang gliders launch themselves into the air with aeronautical agility in this dangerous but highly seductive pursuit. Even if one is not a flyer, the Glider Port is perfect for marveling at modern-day Daedaluses while enjoying a picnic lunch (
