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| Spanish Splendors | ||
| Walking the three cultures of Andalusia from Granada to Seville. | ||
| STORY & PHOTOGRAPHS BY TODD KEITH | ||
Late afternoon sunlight shines down on the busy Gran Via de Colon in Granada, and the streets are filling as the crowds pour out to enjoy the cool evening air. Sipping a sweet, chilled horchata while people-watching, I feel acutely aware of the moment. Made from ground chufa, a peanut-like nut, horchata is the Moors’ creation and a classic example of what makes Spain’s Andalusia such a compelling destination. A rich Roman past and five centuries of Moorish rule, along with a vibrant Jewish culture before their expulsion, make for a dramatic historical backdrop to a physical landscape as varied as any in Europe. As part of a Country Walkers excursion (see sidebar) our small group is about to start an eight-day trek across Andalusia that includes culture-filled city walks and strenuous hikes through picturesque whitewashed mountain villages—as well as up and down the odd ravine or two. Days spent dining, walking, and exploring together offer a remarkable opportunity to build and foster relationships. The walking tour takes us from Granada to Seville—a trip bookended by the last jewel in the Moorish crown, Granada’s stirring Alhambra palace, and by the vibrant streets of Seville, with its majestic cathedral and adjoining 12th-century Giralda bell tower. In between we’ll explore a national park, a UNESCO biosphere reserve, an isolated Buddhist study center, and Roman roads, and generally eat and drink like kings, given the calories we’re burning each day. It is a journey of beautiful moments. Day 1
Gruesome introductions to Andalusian pastimes aside, the regal pose and faded glory of Granada can be almost overwhelming, even without venturing to the bullring. Romans, Visigoths, and Moors all left their mark here, until 1492, when the city was retaken by the Catholic monarchs. Not long after, the Jews and Muslims were expelled. It ended a remarkable period when people of all three faiths coexisted on the Iberian Peninsula. The expulsion was an economic disaster, and Granada collapsed, taking more than two centuries to recover. Days could be spent walking the Alhambra alone, made famous to many Americans by Washington Irving’s Tales of the Alhambra. In it, Irving recounts the stories he picked up during time spent in Granada while serving as the U.S. ambassador to Spain in 1829—a time when donkeys and gypsies lived in the old ruined palaces. Today, the restored gardens, fountains, and palaces are perhaps the most vivid illustration that, while most of Christian Europe limped through the squalid Dark Ages, Moorish civilization thrived and excelled. Days 2 & 3 As we leave Granada and head into the Alpujarra uplands of the Sierra Nevada mountains, the road wends and winds over gorges and hills, the slopes covered in olive, almond, and cherry orchards. The land is mostly dry and dusty, save for the lush mountain valleys watered by rushing streams. As we approach the little village of Bubion, set dramatically on the mountainside, a bank of clouds passes over the summit behind and the bright sunshine reflects off the three pueblos blancos (white villages) lined in a row. On a clear day with wind from the north, you can just see the Mediterranean in the distance. Wind from the south blows in sand from Morocco.
Strolling through Bubion and the neighboring whitewashed villages of Capileira and Pampaneira, that sense of discovery is vivid. Sure, there are tourists who bus their way up the mountain each day to enjoy a lunch with a view and explore, but as we complete the first half of a vigorous 12-mile hike down and up the Poqueira Gorge to the Buddhist study center O Sel Ling, the awareness that we are seeing the real Spain sinks in. We pass chestnut trees, first introduced by the Romans, their extensive root systems serving to keep the terraced hillsides intact for cultivation. Our footsteps kick up the scent of wild lavender, rosemary, and oregano. We also learn that, after less than graciously accepting Spain’s introduction of guns and horses to North America, we returned the favor with sweet potatoes, chocolate, corn, and tobacco. We are worn out, and our picnic of olives, cheese, dried sausages, fruit, bread, and delicious cured ham is a delight. At the end of this journey, we quietly explore the active Buddhist retreat high on a secluded hill, deep in the heart of Catholic Spain. Who would have thought? Days 4 & 5
Walking among the park’s rocky outcroppings, one is struck by the absence of signs of man. Though there are few homes scattered beyond the various nearby villages, because water is so scarce, this is still a working countryside we share with goats, sheep, cows, horses, and the black pigs that forage in the wild for the acorns that make them so tasty. And of course, that bull in the mist that stared me down. I’d gone off the path to take a photo and there he was, an immobile, solid mass of muscle that didn’t move while glaring my way. After praying I had my flash turned off, I took the photo and slowly backed away, ceding the path—indeed the whole hillside if he wanted it—to the brute. After a short drive to nearby Ronda—preceded by our customary post-hike recuperation in a local tavern—we set about exploring this town so dramatically bisected by the twisting, 350-foot deep El Tajo gorge. With the oldest bullring in Spain, Ronda is a pleasing mix of old and new as late afternoon crowds pour out into the streets to shop, take care of some business, and pass the hours over tapas, wine, and conversation. It is the kind of town one could happily never leave. Days 6 & 7 But departure, as always, looms. And that’s why Seville, the capital of Andalusia, is such a bittersweet delight. From the mighty cathedral and the elegant adjoining patio of orange trees where Muslims used to perform ablutions before visiting the former mosque, to the royal palace and maze of Santa Cruz, Seville is a walking city, a place to get lost in the crowds and the nightlife. The Museum of Flamenco Dancing, too, is a must, a phenomenal multimedia introduction to this fascinating culture. “Never go to Madrid to see a flamenco—it makes no sense,” implores a woman we meet in the museum. “Write this in your papers, please. Flamenco is Andalusia.” I promise to do just that.
“You see a certain amount of bonding on these walking journeys that doesn’t happen on other, how shall I put it, more motorized trips,” Nick comments during our last day together. “That group support and encouragement is one of the joys of this type of adventure—you always see people helping each other. Now, a certain amount of wine helps, too, especially if you’re going on a challenging route,” he adds with a smile. After a week spent walking through valleys together and sharing delicious fresh food and free flowing wine, not to mention excellent conversation, it’s hard not to miss my companions after the final goodbyes. The majesty and grand variety of Spain’s Andalusia—its tapas, bullfighting, white villages, flamenco, and shared legacy of Jewish and Moorish history—is meant to be shared.
Country Walkers Tourist Info Hotels Granada NH Victoria Room Mate Migueletes
Casa Romana Boutique Hotel Hotel Hacienda La Boticaria Golf & Spa Resort
Cordoba Toledo
The differences between the approachable towns of Andalusia and Madrid, the country’s capital and home to three million residents, offer a lesson in contrast. The bustle of Madrid, with its lively cafes, restaurants, and late-night discos, is invigorating after the slower pace of the Spanish countryside. Traffic jams just before dawn do not always mean people are going to work early; in many cases, they are just getting home. The energy and excitement is infectious, even if you choose not stay up all night. Madrid is a bit of an odd duck. Chosen as the site of the capital in the late 16th century, it lacks the lengthy pedigree of many European capitals (as well as Roman origins), but more than makes up for its relative youth with its architectural coherence. The old town is compact, with most of the imperial Hapsburg buildings, cultural sites, and nightlife found here. Commonly called “Los Austrias” in consideration of its Austrian lineage, and the site of great festivals, markets, and bullfights through its history, Plaza Mayor continues to draw masses of people. Today, tourists flock to the many terraces to relax with some refreshments and people-watch. Try the chocolate con churros (hot chocolate with Spanish donuts) for a late breakfast, and you’ll fit right in. Not far away, Palacio Real houses the medieval remains of Madrid, as well as the Muslim quarter.
As the financial center of the Iberian Peninsula, Madrid has only grown in importance following the restoration of democracy in 1975 and EU integration. Today, it plays an important role in European fiscal policymaking, and there are plenty of business travelers in for a short day or two of meetings. Those traveling to the capital for business would do well to add at least a day to soak up the sights and sensations of Madrid. An excellent use of a few precious hours of free time would be the grand art museums located along the Paseo del Prado. To skip these sites, even during a short layover in Madrid, would be a shame. The Prado Museum’s (www.museoprado.es) fame rests on its status as the world’s largest repository of paintings, while the Thyssen Bornemisza Museum’s (www.museothyssen.org) collection started as one of the world’s finest private collections. The Reina Sofia Museum (www.museoreinasofia.mcu.es), with notables such as Pablo Picasso’s Guernica, is dedicated mainly to Spanish art. Finally, in case you missed flamenco in Seville, Granada, or Cordoba, there is some to be found in Madrid—just don’t tell any of your new friends in Andalusia that’s where you saw it. They’ll never let you live it down.
To Learn More
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In every good journey, there is a moment when you know you’ve arrived at your destination, both physically and mentally. You’re on local time. It might be the chaotic hum of Rome’s Termini station or perhaps watching the sun set behind the Pitons on St. Lucia, but at that moment, you’ve left your familiar world behind and are thoroughly and delightfully in the strange, foreign present. Any journey through Andalusia is replete with such moments.
It began with a bit of blood. Upon arrival, the members of our group all took off in different directions to explore Granada, including some who hurried off to catch a local bullfight. “When they killed the first bull, we were a little queasy,” begins Bill, an executive from Michigan and the group’s resident comedian. “By the time they killed the fifth one, we were criticizing the matador’s technique.” 
Sitting in a little café overlooking the canyon below, I have a late coffee with our walking guide, Nick Law, a genial Brit who’s lived in Spain for years. He’s mastered the intricate art of both actively assisting and educating those in his charge, yet blending into the background to allow everyone the opportunity to savor the sensations of Andalusia on their own terms. “Spain is a diamond in the rough,” he begins. “Obviously, the Renaissance shaped Italy and it was the destination for everyone who wanted to study the great painters, writers, and artists. But Spain has so many hidden jewels to be discovered, unlike Italy, which has been a major tourist destination for hundreds of years.”
It’s early afternoon, and after a drive west through cork groves—the newly peeled bark exposing the rich red tones below—we reach Grazalema, a pleasant village perched on a mountainside like some giant eyrie. Children kick a soccer ball in the small square beneath the shadows of the church. A rich wool trade in the 18th century financed the town’s many fine palaces and rich facades, but it is the hike into the majestic Sierra de Grazalema National Park that draws the most visitors today. 
Aire de Sevilla, a newly opened Arab baths complex, is the perfect place to recuperate after a week of invigorating exercise. Clients descend far underground to baths containing water warmed to different temperatures. It is a true hammam experience, sipping tea in a steam room underground—but most importantly, it is one of those moments where one can appreciate some of the faded social customs imported from the Middle East to Andalusia many centuries ago.
AC Palacio de Santa Paula
While You’re There
If you have only a short time in the capital, for quick orientation head to the Puerta del Sol, the city’s dramatic center. From here you’ll connect with Gran 
