Beef, tango, and soccer. Ask most people what Argentina is known for and these subjects will likely be among the headlines. While all three certainly have their admirers, wine as a unifying theme becomes more prominent each year, especially given that just about any social gathering in the country revolves around vino rojo.

But recently, a tectonic shift has taken place as the country moves from being mainly a quantity wine producer to that of a quality exporter. Whether grown in the heart of wine country in Mendoza or in the high-altitude vineyards of Cafayate, Argentinean wine is rapidly gaining attention—and table space—across the globe.

As you approach the sunny Cafayate Valley in western Argentina, the landscape extends before you in rich pink hues, a painted desert with red-rock outcroppings, soaring cliffs, and dry grasses, below the dominating Andes Mountains. The summer rains cut their way through the countryside here like water through sand, carving dramatic canyons and rocky formations. The colonial architecture, handicraft shops, and quaint cafés of the small town of Cafayate draw visitors, but chief among the area’s attractions is Cafayate’s most celebrated product: wine.

Here in the highest grape-growing region in the world, special environmental conditions make for a special harvest, with vineyards receiving approximately 330 days of sun a year. Because the Andes to the west prevent rain clouds from neighboring Chile from moving into the valley, water flow to the vineyards can be controlled by relying on glacier melt flowing down the Andes. Thanks first to the Incas, then the conquering Spaniards, lengthy canals gather and collect snow melt in long ribbons that run down the steep mountainsides. During the day, the warm sun shines down on wine-producing provinces that are about the same distance from the equator as vineyards in France, California, and Italy. At night, the temperature drops, allowing the plants to rest and not burn off their acid, preserving the all-important acidity so vital to taste.

At Michel Torino Winery, just on the outskirts of Cafayate, all aspects of winemaking are on display. Like much of Argentina, the Torino winery has strong ties to European history and culture—only the United States absorbed more immigrants from Europe than Argentina. The majority of those coming to Argentina in the 19th and early 20th centuries were from Italy and Spain. In 1870, brothers David and Salvador Michel, immigrants of Catalan origin, realized just how suitable the Cafayate Valley was for wine production. The brothers founded the winery in 1892 after David married into the Italian Torino family.

Today, these high-altitude vineyards, 5,600 to 6,700 feet above sea level, use the most modern methods. For instance, the winery uses planes to take infrared photos of the vineyards to see how they are growing, which areas require water, and how far along the harvest is. Xeriscaping procedures use sheep to keep the weeds down when the leaves are off the vines, which in turn benefits both local farmers and the winery, and can reduce or eliminate the use of fertilizers.

“We are proud to say that [the growing methods] are organic, and [are] good for the environment,” explains Nicholas Costas, Michel Torino’s export manager, as he leads a visiting group through a tasting of Torino’s collection. “But it is important that the wine still tastes as good as any other. And it does,” he adds with a smile. The resulting wines are impressive, on both the nose and the tongue. The 2004 Ciclos, recently named among the Best 100 Wines by Wine Enthusiast, offers a rich, ripe blend of malbec-merlot with a touch of coffee in the mouth—a great accompaniment for spicy empanadas. Other Michel Torino offerings include the Don David Tannat, created from 100 percent tannat grapes, and Cuma, a new range of organically grown wines. “At the end of the day, we want our wines to taste like where they come from,” Nicholas says. “It is not a fruit bomb from Australia—why should it be?”

While the dramatic setting and striking architecture of the Michel Torino Winery make an immediate impression on travelers, the restaurant at the adjacent Patios de Cafayate Hotel and Spa is the main venue to sample high altitude cuisine. Recalling the area’s pre-Columbian past, foods such as lamb, llama, rabbit, Yala trout, and organic indigenous vegetables and grains are all incorporated into the cuisine. Chef Lalo Angelina, whose mission is to research and rescue Andean dishes, partnered with Lisandro Meyer to open José Balcarce restaurant in nearby Salta, and their inspired recipes may be enjoyed both there and in Patios de Cafayate’s restaurant.

The hotel itself offers views of the snow-capped Andes to the west and the Aconquija Hills to the east, with 200-year-old carob trees in the foreground. The Spanish-style furniture, buildings, and patios overflowing with colorful vines and
burbling fountains evoke an Old World charm. With 30 guest rooms, the small hotel maintains an intimate feel and the attention to detail that one would expect of Starwood Hotels’ Luxury Collection.

Just beyond the hotel, however, a small gravel trail leads to the brand new WineSpa, itself the main attraction for many visitors. A modern contrast to the hotel, the spa’s open glass walls and stone interior set it apart from the rest of the estate, signaling the experience of luxury and relaxation to come. As the name implies, the highland vines and products from this Andean setting are the basis for the spa’s products and treatments, including local quinoa, carob, cacti, goat milk, molle, and of course, grapes and wine. A cabernet sauvignon barrel bath moistens the skin and improves circulation, while various massages with grape seeds, local salts, and wine, and volcanic clay wraps offer distinctive spa options. Still, the grape syrup and wine wrap may just be the best salve dry skin could ask for. Its restorative properties last for days.

After the pleasures of Cafayate, a trip to the central wine region of Mendoza is a natural culmination of any wine-themed visit to Argentina. A full 70 percent of the nation’s wine is produced here and along the Uco Valley at altitudes nearly as high as Cafayate. Since Argentina’s seasons are reversed, the wine harvest runs from February to early April, Argentina’s autumn. The season is a festive one with a series of harvest celebrations and parades featuring floats and gauchos (cowboys) on horseback filling the Plaza Independecia. It is a fitting tribute to Mendoza, one of the world’s wine capitals, a beautiful city of green squares, trendy neighborhoods like Chacras de Coria, and shady tree-lined avenues tailor-made for long strolls.

As perhaps the best-known Argentinean wine brand in the world, Trapiche exports to 60 countries and their presence looms large among the Uco Valley’s numerous celebrated wineries. A sign of just how significant wine tourism is to the region: at the sleek, new Executive Park Suites Hotel, seven of the hotel’s 17 floors have been designed as “wine floors” where Trapiche and six other prestigious wineries play off the wine theme with special decorations and, of course, wines.

At Trapiche’s impressive winery, located just beyond Mendoza, the 8,000 oak barrels held in their cellar is the largest stock of wine in South America. With a more than 120-year history, Trapiche is one of the largest landowners in the province of Mendoza, though to take full advantage of the diversity of the province Trapiche also uses more than 200 individual growers in the region. As a means to capture the area’s terroir or special geographical characteristics, in 2007 the brand introduced a line of Trapiche Malbec Single Vineyard wines, small-batch malbecs created from the three best malbecs of 2004. This also highlights the local grape growers themselves. Each harvest, the best wines are chosen from over 90 vineyards in the Mendoza region, and the results, bottled under the Victorio Colletto Single Vineyard “El Peral” 2004 label, are strikingly intense and vibrant.

First introduced by the French in the 1850s, malbec has thrived in Argentina, producing a rich, less tannic-driven variety than its European counterpart. Other labels such as Trapiche’s premium Oak Cast wines include malbec as well as more common grapes like cabernet sauvignon, shiraz, pinot noir, and others. Within the Varietals label, a curious standout is the indigenous Argentine grape, torrontés. While it may not have the signature flair of malbec, the clear, clean wine’s floral and citrus notes make for a fresh pairing with spicy foods like Thai or ceviche. “I think my profession holds a good comparison with that of an architect,” muses David Pi, Trapiche’s chief winemaker, as he pours torrontés and then opens yet more bottles for guests in Trapiche’s tasting room. “It is technical, winemaking, yes, but also has a strong design element. I can say that it takes both to produce worthy wine.”

It’s a sign of just how far the underlying architecture of the Argentine wine industry has come since the 1970s when the average citizen consumed 125 bottles per person annually. At the time, Argentina was the world’s fourth largest producer of wine, creating decent table wines consumed with beef and filling wine tankers with low-cost red and whites for mass export. With the shift to lower yields and higher quality wines, along with technological investments, brands such as Michel Torino and Trapiche are leading the way by pairing a modern approach to wine making while still valuing the intrinsic local characteristics and qualities of their remarkable Andean setting.

With the Andes Mountains dominating nearly every view from Cafayate and Mendoza, the most fitting way to end a wine journey is where the water that nourishes Argentina’s vineyards begins: high up in the Andean plateau. The small and simple ranch Las Pircas, situated at an altitude of 6,550 feet, is a short, scenic drive up the mountains. It is a popular day trip for visitors and groups that want a quiet, relaxing retreat where they can be pampered. After some horseback riding to work up an appetite, we dine on several local specialties—including some excellent empanadas stuffed with beef, onion, olives, and eggs—while the main course of fresh pork marinates in lemon and crushed pepper. Instead of tackling the climbing challenge presented by the 21,555-foot, snow-encrusted Mount Tuoungato towering in the distance, I settle in to tackle the far more difficult challenge of deciding which wines to pair with lunch.

What to Do in Buenos Aires
Any visit to Argentina likely begins and ends in the capital city of Buenos Aires, often called the “Paris of South America.” A lively mix of the Old and New World thanks to the diverse ethnic heritage of its residents, Buenos Aires is the center for shopping, business, government, and entertainment in the country. Below are a few of the highlights of this sophisticated and sensual town.

1 Walk the Recoleta Cemetery, opulent resting place of many of the city’s most famous (and infamous) denizens, such as Eva Perón.
2 Visit the Barrios, the colorful and varied neighborhoods such as Ecoleta, La Coca, San Telmo, and Palermo that make up the capital city.
3 Dance the Tango, aiming for a group class at a tango club, or if you’re more particular in your needs, take private lessons at a place such as Tango Taxi Dancers (www.tangotaxidancers.com).
4 Take in Palacio Barolo, and its panoramic views of Buenos Aires. Tours of the 22-story office building—which was the tallest building in South America upon completion in 1923—are available (www.pbarolo.com.ar).
5 For many, Futbol at Boca, the local soccer team, is the quintessential Buenos Aires experience. Even if you’re not a fan of soccer or Club Atlético Boca Juniors, it’s a glimpse into working class culture.
6 Stroll Calle Florida, a must for architecture buffs who will enjoy the opulence of this mile-long pedestrian mall.
7 Live like a carnivore at Rodizio in Puerto Madero, one of many excellent steakhouses found in the capital, and realize what it means to sit atop the food chain.
8 Where there’s beef, there’s cowhide. Select a cowhide to use as a rug from the more than 200 skins at Nueva Casa Antonio on Avenida Boedo.

Details

Estancia Las Pircas
www.estancialaspircas.com.ar

Michel Torino Winery, Cafayate, Salta Province
www.micheltorino.com.ar

Patios de Cafayate
Wine Spa Hotel
www.starwoodhotels.com

Trapiche Winery, Mendoza
www.trapiche.com.ar

Photo Captions:
Photo 1: Argentina’s primary wine regions are found in the western part of the country, situated on wide valleys or sloping prairies along the Andes.
Photo 2: Located in Mendoza, Trapiche is among Argentina’s best-known wine brands, courtesy of Trapiche.
Photo 3: Arnaga Casa de Campo is a bed-and-breakfast built in 1942, located just 20 minutes from downtown Salta.
Photo 4: Because of the mild, dry weather and their distance from urban pollution, Argentina’s vineyards typically require fewer pesticides and herbicides than many of their counterparts in other countries.
Photo 5: Salinas Grandes (salt flats) are located in the Argentinean province of Jujuy, northwest of Salta along the border of Chile and Bolivia.