A funny thing happened to me on the way home from Dallas. My return flight was climbing to its cruising altitude and I was looking out the window watching the city recede when I thought to myself, "You know, I wish I’d had more time in Dallas."
Whoa! Wait. What?
More time in Dallas? Not Paris, not Florence, not London or New York.
I wished I’d had more time in Dallas?
But there it was. A thought, pure and unassailable, had bubbled up unbidden from my subconscious, popped into my brain, and now the fact had to be faced: I had a great time in Dallas.
If any of you are currently trying to picture what a great time in Dallas looks like, you probably have an image of me shooting cans off a fence while clad in head-to-toe denim and an enormous hat. Or perhaps you envision me pulling up in an expensive automobile with longhorns on the hood and offering my hand to a big-haired woman dripping in dazzling jewelry.
You’d be wrong.
Dallas is no longer merely the dried up husk of the television show that made it famous. It’s no longer the exclusive stomping ground of oilmen and cowboys. New life has taken root in big D, and the reinvention is most welcome.

In with the New
There’s no denying Dallas has been in a slump. Like a child actor trying to weather the transition to adulthood, the city of Dallas has been locked in a love/hate relationship with the seminal nighttime drama that made it famous in the first place.
Most of America solidified its image of Dallas as a place where 10- gallon hats and 10 million dollar homes were the norm while watching this show. And while the citizens of Dallas do not shy from this image— there was a reason the show was so explosively popular—they would like the rest of us to know that Dallas is all grown up now and has some new things to offer.
At the heart of the growing divide between Dallas and Dallas is a love of art and architecture. The city’s skyline has blossomed with bold new constructions over the last few years, and I would unscientifically say there is more public art and sculpture in Dallas than there is anywhere outside of Paris.
"Even five years ago tourists coming to Dallas were picturing the TV show," says Phillip J. Jones, president and CEO of the Dallas Convention and Visitors Bureau. "They had a very dated, ’80s perception of the city. But what we’re finding now when people come here is that they’re amazed at all the transformation. We have billions in new development: new parks, bridges, and waterways. We have the largest urban arts district in the country and constructions by Starck and YOO, Phillip Johnson, and I.M. Pei. We’re really a city that values art and architecture."
Dallas has always been a city obsessed with the visual. And while that obsession took the form of fake breasts and giant hair in the 1980s, today, a stroll though the thriving downtown reveals immaculate trees lining immaculate streets walked by immaculate people. A cadre of picture-perfect trolley cars transports tourists to sites like the absolutely world class Nasher Sculpture Center (2001 Flora Street; www.nashersculpturecenter.org) and the stirring Kennedy memorial Sixth Floor Museum (411 Elm Street; www. jfk.org). Dallas’ skyline seems to bristle with new additions, and even those not designed by international heavy hitters on the scale of Johnson and Pei are worth a second look.
Anchoring Dallas’ revived downtown is the Victory Park Development (www.victorypark.com). A massive project, which, in many ways, encapsulates the maturation of the city, Victory Park somehow manages to feature a galaxy of upscale shopping, fine dining, a W Hotel, and even a basketball arena without seeming overburdened.
"Frankly, this is absolutely not the same city it was 10 years ago," confirms Jones. "Dallas doesn’t have mountains or beaches, so our main asset is our people—our thinkers and dreamers."

Keep the Old
One can imagine that a city undergoing a reinvention would be tempted to toss its old self entirely onto the scrap heap. But it would be a shame for Dallas to banish Dallas altogether. There was, after all, an undeniable appeal to that look, that lifestyle, that glitz.
Happily, not every attraction Dallas currently offers is refaced, rebranded, or new. There are still ample opportunities to throw on your cowboy boots and "have you a good ol’ time."
Landmark standouts like the arboretum (8525 Garland Road; www.dallasarboretum.com) and the Fair Park area (www.fairpark.org)—home to the Texas state fair—are still fully operational and open their gates to thousands of eager visitors each year. And the folks at the original Sonny Bryan’s Smokehouse (2202 Inwood Road; www.sonnybryans.com) are still eating that smoky, perfect brisket off the same beat-up school desks like they always have.

So while Dallas has grown in sophistication, it’s managed to spread its limbs without losing touch with its roots.
"We’re really proud of how our city’s growing up," says Jones. "And we’re going to keep on maturing and improving."
Sounds good. And no one is more surprised than me to say I’m looking forward to coming back to check on you.

Don’t-Miss Dallas Hotspots
By Chris Connolly

The W Hotel
The W, like its sister hotels around the globe, has a unique, boutique feel, and serves as a one-stop shop for big fun in big D. With Tom Colicchio’s Craft in the lobby, and the hot and hopping Ghost Bar on the top floor, you never have to leave your hotel to find the best party in town. www.starwoodhotels.com

LFT
LFT, which stands for Lifestyle Fashion Terminal, is the all-star team of department stores. Walking in,it’s as if your most fashionable friend spent a month combing all the malls in your town and put together a small collection of perfect pieces just for you. www.mylft.com

N9ne Steakhouse
Although the spelling is a bit cloying, and the place is decorated like the steakhouse on the Starship Enterprise might be, the food, service, wine list, and overall experience at N9ne are second to none. Prime beef, of course, reigns supreme, but there are also inventive and intriguing non-bovine options on the menu. Dessert is also wellworth the calories. www.n9negroup.com

Deep Ellum
Not a specific site, but an entire neighborhood waiting to be explored. This laid-back, bohemian area is the perfect place for a stroll, some shopping, or lunch at an open-air taqueria.

The 6th Floor Museum
Not exactly a romp, this sobering museum and tribute to John F. Kennedy provides powerful perspective on a nation’s pain. Probably not a place to visit on your honeymoon or with the kids, but a can’t-miss for history buffs. www.jfk.com

The Dallas World Aquarium
An aquarium, yes, but so much more. As everything is bigger in Texas, the designers of the DWA could not content themselves with theclassic various-fish-in-tanks-of-water formula. Instead, they tossed ina rainforest, a South African exhibit, and even a Mayan performance troupe. www.dwazoo.com

The Dallas Farmers’ Market
Nothing lays the character of a city bare better than an early morning visit to a farmers’ market. Grab a cup of coffee and head to this oneat 7 a.m. to see what the locals are really all about. www.dallasfarmersmarket.org

More Recommendations
[ Restaurants ]

Bob’s Steak & Chop House
4300 Lemmon Avenue
214-528-9446
www.bobs-steakandchop.com
The original location of this refined steak house, in operation since 1993.

Stephan Pyles
1807 Ross Avenue
214-580-7000
www.stephenpyles.com
Serving "New Millenium Southwestern Cuisine" that combines influences from Texas, South America, Spain, the Middle East, and the Mediterranean.

Trece
4513 Travis Street
214-780-1900
www.trecerestaurant.com
Specializes in Mexican haute cuisine (alta cocina Mexicana).

York Street
6047 Lewis Street
214-826-0968
www.yorkstreetdallas.com
Was named one of Gourmet’s Top 50 Restaurants in the Nation, among other honors.

[ Hotels ]

Four Seasons Resort & Club Dallas at Las Colinas
4150 North MacArthur Boulevard
972-717-0700
www.fourseasons.com
Spanish colonial-style offering a TPC golf course; located on a former cattle ranch 15 minutes from downtown.

The Ritz-Carlton Dallas
2121 McKinney Avenue
214-922-0200
Located in the stylish Uptown area, this 218-room hotel is Dallas’ newest luxury hotel (opened in 2007).

Rosewood Crescent Hotel
400 Crescent Court
800-654-6541
www.rosewoodhotels.com
Offers 191 deluxe rooms and 29 one- and two-story suites in an atmosphere of European elegance; a seven-minute walk fromthe Arts District.

Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek
2821 Turtle Creek Boulevard
214-559-2100
www.mansionturtlecreek.com
Once the palatial home of a Texas cotton magnate, and now a Rosewood hotel, the Mansion is Texas’ only Five-Star (since 1991),Five-Diamond (since 1992) hotel.