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The Magazine
 
Running the Green River
Kayaking North Carolina’s whitewater offers thrills for all ages.
 
STORY & PHOTOGRAPHS BY LIBBA YOUNG
 

Family vacations are not always about parents spending quality time with their children. When my twin cousins graduated from high school, my sister and I decided it would be a great time to spend a few days with them (independent from our parents) before they officially became “college kids.” We wanted to do something fun, adventurous, and outdoorsy, and since my sister lives in Asheville, North Carolina, we had a plethora of activities to choose from. We settled on kayaking simply because we all wanted to be in the same “boat,” so to speak, and none of us had tried it before. Throw into the mix that we were all slightly intimidated by small boats and fast-moving water, and we thought we’d have family bonding at its best.

Green River Adventures (GRA), located 20 minutes south of Asheville in Saluda, North Carolina, is a good match for families and groups looking for fast-paced whitewater kayaking or laid back floating and enjoying the scenery. We met our guide, owner Sara Bell, outside of Asheville and followed her down a winding road, complete with 16 “hairpin” turns, 18 switchbacks, and a 15 percent grade. After we recovered from our motion sickness, we helped Sara unload the gear. GRA plans ahead, asking clients to fill out forms that include participants’ height and weight prior to the week of the trip, so guides bring boats that fit each client’s build (lying about your weight will not improve your self-esteem when the kayak starts to sink on the river or you get stuck trying to exit).

Before getting our feet wet, we were instructed to sit in our boats on the shore for a breathing exercise. This exercise went a long way toward waylaying the anxiety that had been plaguing me since the night before, when I had dreamt of being stuck upside down in a tiny little boat, heading towards a waterfall.

We opted for the two-day instructional whitewater kayaking course. GRA also offers guided inflatable whitewater kayaking trips (from class I to IV), guided fly fishing trips, and fly fishing instruction. During summer months, they offer a program called “Rapid Experiences.” This 13-day overnight camp for teenagers not only focuses on kayaking instruction, but also teambuilding and group living skills. One of the things that sets GRA apart from its competition is the fact that their clinics top out at four students per instructor. While other kayaking schools offer the same ratio (4:1), they are usually on the river with three instructors and 12 students. By keeping their numbers low, GRA succeeds in creating an environment conducive to learning without overcrowding the river. They also pride themselves on their ability to be flexible and accommodate any group’s or family’s specific needs.

We experienced this flexibility firsthand after our picnic lunch (black bean hummus!) and a pep talk from Sara, who was more than understanding about our hesitancy to paddle some of the rapids. She suggested that we ditch the boats, hike up the river, and watch the professional kayakers run through a series of rapids, known as Hammer Factor (class V) and Toilet Bowl (class IV). This offered us the opportunity to chat with Sara about the Green River, which, until recently, had been overrun by people who missed the lecture on littering and had no compunction about drinking a case of beer and then driving back up the switchback road. In August of 2006, the state of North Carolina passed a law outlawing alcohol on the river, which has had an amazing cleansing effect on its appearance and clientele. This is one of the reasons why it has become such a wonderful family destination: parents don’t have to worry about their children getting hit in the head with beer cans as they float down the river.

The Green River is also home to a world-famous section of class V whitewater rapids, known as the “Narrows, ” which attracts serious paddlers from around the globe. But its overwhelming appeal to both kayakers and instructors lies in the fact that it has three very distinct sections, something few rivers have, each of which is perfectly suited for a wide spectrum of paddling abilities. Apart from its water sports, the Green River Gorge has been designated “Wild and Scenic” by the North Carolina Wildlife Resources Commission, and it is truly that. Its rugged wilderness is home to black bears and big, beautiful wild trout.

Participating in a kayaking course not only challenged us physically but brought us closer, as sisters, cousins, and friends. We learned a lot about each other and ourselves by attempting a new activity that allowed us to step outside of our comfort zones. We found out how we each deal with stress, pressure, and anxiety, and how easily these feelings can evolve into excitement, elation, and triumph. Watching my family run the gamut of these emotions allowed me to relate to them on a deeper level. And in today’s busy world, I can think of no better reason to spend some time on the river.

Where to Stay

The Orchard Inn was recently voted into the top 15 Bed & Breakfasts in North America. It offers amazing meals, large comfortable living spaces, and a laid-back atmosphere—definitely not your traditional Bed & Breakfast. www.orchardinn.com

The Saluda Mountain Lodge is a great option for people participating in one of Green River Adventures’ courses. It sits right across the street from their Outfitter’s Shop and makes it easy to get an early start on the river. It is also just a few minutes from downtown Saluda, for food and fun. 866-602-6973

Where to Eat

Green River BBQ has been serving traditional Southern-style barbecue since 1984 and is a local favorite. 828-749-9892

The Purple Onion Café and Coffeehouse is informal dining at its best, complete with live music on Thursday and Saturday evenings. 828-749-1179

The Saluda Grade Café is an informal restaurant with reasonable prices serving soups, salads, sandwiches, and tasty entrees. 828-749-3310

Wildflower Bakery is an outstanding local bakery that also serves lunches and snacks. 828-749-9334

Photo captions
Picture 1: A paddler shares his excitement at having made it through the Green River's "Hammer Factor" right side up.
Picture 2: Boats, paddles, helmets, skirts, life vests, dry bags, and nose plugs are necessities for whitewater kayaking.
Picture 3: The family and instructor pose for a photo while everyone's still dry.

 
 
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