 |
 |
 |
 |
|
 |
|
 |
|
|
|
||
 |
 |
|
|
||
|
||
| Less Traveled By | ||
| Rustic luxury in the North Georgia mountains. | ||
| BY CLEO GORMAN | ||
Bisected by free-flowing Dukes Creek, the Smithgall Woods Conservation Area is comprised of 5,555 heavily wooded acres, contributed by Charles A. Smithgall, Jr. to the State of Georgia in 1994. Destiny, undoubtedly, led him here. Smithgall, an entreprenuerial media businessman, had built only a one-bedroom cottage and the main lodge on the land. His generous gift included only the provision of site residences for his family as long as they desired them. Soon after the deed was handed over, then Georgia Governor Zell Miller created the nature conservancy to protect it for future generations, fulfilling the purpose of Smithgall’s gift. Survived by his family, Smithgall died in 2003. As Smithgall well knew, this land was not always the beneficiary of such watchful care. Beginning in the early 1800s, this region was home to gold mining, hydraulic mining, and lumber harvesting operations that decimated much of the wilderness. Now protected by the state, Smithgall Woods is meant to serve as a standard for environmental education and natural beauty.
For avid fishermen, Smithgall Woods is a paradise—Dukes Creek has been named by Trout Unlimited as one of the “Top 100 Trout Streams in America,” and only 15 fishermen are allowed on the creek at one time. Brook, brown, and rainbow trout are native, but can be caught only by artificial lures and must be returned to the creek, according to catch-and-release rules. For day hiking, biking, and birdwatching, the trails beckon. Each of the property’s six hiking trails offers a different physical challenge and feature. Gravel roads end in wildlife plots and rotated crops to attract turkeys and deer. From beehives to bobcats and bears, wildlife sightings are abundant. For casual observing, the forest is replete with mature hardwoods, which, despite the ravages of the 19th and early 20th centuries, appear to have been here since the dawn of time. Smithgall ordered plantings in plentiful stands of Florida Torreya, one of North America’s most critically endangered trees, white pines, and tulip poplars throughout the property. It’s a serendipitous bonus that the mountain laurel routinely blooms on Mother’s Day, and the rhododendron blooms on Father’s Day.
For cabin guests, picnicking is a popular option, although fine dining offered in the main lodge, created by the property’s dedicated chef, is customary. We were served carefully planned feasts each day, some with a local flair (Georgia stone ground grits were served in the Shrimp and Grits recipe) and wine pairings by a visiting sommelier. Sitdown meals, with a communal feel reminiscent of a bed and breakfast, were interspersed with hors d’oeuvres-and-cocktail hours that were social events unto themselves. Who knew that we would be treated to mint juleps while we watched the Kentucky Derby with new friends? Smithgall’s remote location is a large element of its charm, yet only a few minutes’ drive offers the alpine village of Helen, dotted with crafts shops and restaurants (be prepared for parking fees throughout the small town); summer-scheduled runs down the Chattahoochee River by rented rafts; and vineyard hopping through North Georgia’s vineyards, including the Blackstock Winery, host to the region’s annual summer Wine Festival. Details Photo Captions:
|
||
|
||
Nestled in the North Georgia Mountains, between the towns of Helen and Dahlonega, thrives a nature preserve with everything an outdoorsperson will appreciate and an environmentalist will cherish. Smithgall Woods is actually better described as a resort—that it happens to be owned by the Georgia Department of State Parks is an anomaly. Sure, there are trails, wildlife, and a campsite (reserved only for nonprofit organizations like the Boy Scouts), but the accommodations offer uncommon comfort in nicely-appointed log cabins atypical of state park facilities. A cozy lodge sits on a river-fed creek that meanders through the property, running over (yes, over, not under) an aqueous bridge that leads to the main lodge. Add a staff that behaves like the creative caretakers of a five-star resort, and the surprises, both natural and man-made, are waiting to be discovered everywhere at Smithgall Woods. 
For its new purpose as a state park accessible to everyone, a small visitor’s center was built at the public entrance on one side of the Richard Russell Scenic Highway (Highway 348). There, we gathered information maps to guide our exploration and admired trophies and mounts of the wildlife species that inhabit the property. A caged hawk and owl offered a preview of life we might see in the wild (the snakes, I could have done without). The primer was nice, but the message was clear: stay awhile and get outside, breathe the crisp, clean air, and enjoy the raw, unadulterated beauty that exists in nature, rarely at this scale. 
Once checked in and ready to explore our lodging, we drove across Highway 348 and through the state’s gated resort. We noticed an amusing life-like bear sculpture, commissioned by Smithgall himself, along the single-lane dirt road. Here, added to Smithgall’s original structures were two more small log cabins and a larger cottage, now known as Dover Lodge, intended for use as a meeting and conference center. 
