 |
 |
 |
 |
|
 |
|
 |
|
|
|
||
 |
 |
|
|
||
|
||
| Kings of Spring | ||
| New England’s royal slush tempts skiers aching for one last run before summer sets in. | ||
| BY HILARY NANGLE & PEGGY SHINN | ||
Sure, crocuses are poking up their brave little yellow and purple heads in the valleys, and gone (for the most part) are the Canadian clippers that blast Hell-freezing arctic temperatures to this part of the world. But some years, the jet stream—that snowstorm conveyer belt—won’t budge, despite what the calendar says. It hijacks storms in the southern U.S., pumps them full of Gulf moisture, and spins them northward, where they dump their load in feet, not inches. More snow often blankets northern New England’s alpine resorts now than in January. And—bonus points—it’s warmer, too. Last spring, the jet stream was on a mission, bringing storm after storm from mid-March through late-April. We—Peggy in Vermont and Hilary in Maine—delighted in trying to outscore each other’s spring skiing escapades. Each day, we gleefully e-mailed each other boasting, “It can’t get any better than this.” And each day it did. With this taste of spring still dancing on our palates, we’re going to dish about New England’s kings of spring skiing: Peggy about Vermont’s royalty, Hilary about Maine’s crowns, and together we employ the royal We for New Hampshire’s grande dame and her entourage. VERMONT Stowe made the map in the 1930s when FDR’s Civil Conservation Corps cut the first ski trails on Mount Mansfield’s flanks. By 1940, it claimed the world’s longest chairlift—a single-seater—and the title Ski Capital of the East.
It was one such March that my husband and I met friends in Stowe’s lodge. “Ever done the Front Four?” they asked, referring to the legendary trails that cascade down the mountain’s face like waterfalls. Most winters these are waterfalls, frozen solid with blue ice. Enticed by its ample width and manmade-snow cover, I had skied Liftline and National but only looked nervously at Goat and Starr, each with pitches up to 37 degrees. Encouraged by soft snow and warm sun, we replied, “Why not?” Our Tour de Front Four-ce began with dropping—literally— into Goat, barely two moguls wide, and continued on Starr, guarded by a cliff-like drop at the top. We ended with laps on National and Liftline, comparatively easy runs after their near-vertical siblings, then dove into the mountain’s glades, most navigable in spring’s deep snowpack. My favorite trail, though, is Nose Dive, cut in 1934 for racing, with seven hairpin turns diving down Mount Mansfield’s cliff-like “nose” (yes, there’s a nose and a chin, and even lips, but no one talks about those). Although four turns were straightened when Nose Dive was widened in 1966, it remains a New England classic.
Is Stowe going soft? Hardly. But few complain when winter icing gives way to springtime sugar-like snow. After all that meat, it’s a yummy dessert. Farther south, Killington—a crown prince to New England’s spring kings—can feel like the beach in spring. The world’s largest snowmaking system ensures the Big K’s trails are well covered—like tropical white beaches stretching for miles. Families ski the gentle waves at Ramshead and Snowshed, while the heavy surf is found at Bear Mountain’s Outer Limits, the longest, steepest mogul run in the East. All over the resort, everyone—from beginners to freeriders, beer-drinkers to martini aficionados—seems up for a party. Like Rio. Without the thongs. NEW HAMPSHIRE When we crave manicured, purr-producing slopes, dining too well (and eating too much), and dancing into the night, we head for Bretton Woods. Not only is it New Hampshire’s largest Alpine ski area, but it also is home to the Mount Washington Hotel, an architectural belle of the ball. A ski vacation here requires little work both on and off the slopes. Park the car, and forget it. Drop the kids in The Hobbit Ski School, and forget them (just kidding). Book a spa appointment, pretend to work out in the health club, sip martinis in the Conservatory, even read a book. It’s New England’s Big Easy, set against the purple Alpenglow on Mount Washington, the highest peak in
Oh yeah, the skiing. Opened in 1973, Bretton Woods is a relative newcomer to New England skiing, and its terrain reflects its youth. The wide-bodied, fall-line cruiser runs demand little other than a minor shift of weight to turn, and the resort’s spacious glades let us see the forest through the trees. Even steeper West Mountain has elbow room. But the recently annexed Rosebrook defies the gentleness code. Take to the trees here, and it feels like a backcountry adventure. If the weather gods don’t cooperate, it’s not like we’re marooned in New Hampshire’s north woods without options. The hotel’s daily activities are reminiscent of a cruise ship: wine tastings, culinary demonstrations, hotel tours, horse-drawn sleigh rides, and if the outdoors still beckons, there’s Nordic skiing and snowshoeing, dogsledding, snowmobiling, even ice climbing (and yes, the ice stays solid here longer than anyone hopes). Despite its gentle rep, even the most hard-core skiers and riders will come to Bretton Woods late in the spring, to make the last turns before summer at the only New Hampshire resort that’s still open. Sure, the snow in places may look more brown than white, but there’s always the greens of the golf course below.
Wildcat is posh when compared with Tuck’s, a glacial cirque below Mount Washington’s summit. Skiing here requires a 2.4-mile hike, carrying equipment and supplies, up the mountain. Once booted up, you have to shoulder your skis again for the ultra-steep climb up the famed Headwall. How steep? Your knees will hit the slope as you hike, and should you slip, it’s a long, heart-stopping slide down. Still, nothing beats Tuck’s on a warm spring day, when the beer (also packed in) flows as fast as the melting snow. MAINE By late March, northwestern Maine is seriously into cabin fever mode. Rumors of daffodils and thoughts of venturing outside without swaddling in fleece drive many folks south. Fools! In the first 18 days of April last year, Sugarloaf received 107 inches of snow; that’s more than nine feet. It came in storms big and small, sometimes accompanied by leftover Arctic blasts, other times by almost balmy breezes. In 1950, The Bigelow Boys, led by a local storekeeper with the appropriate name of Amos Winter, etched the soaring, singular peak with the first of many classic trails that ribbon its 2,820-foot vertical. Unlike some eastern areas, Sugarloaf’s vert is continuous from peak to base, not measured from one summit to an adjoining mountain’s base.
Spring is the reward for surviving Sugarloaf’s often brutally frigid and blustery January and February. The same winds that sometimes shut down lifts and drive temperatures down to—well, let’s just not go there—also blow snow across the summit, filling the back bowl and blanketing the face. Sugarloaf’s crown jewel, The Snowfields, provides the only lift-serviced, above-treeline terrain in the East. Every spring rekindles that wild, childlike abandon of going everywhere on the mountain just because I can. I dither between T-shirt slogans: is The Face the Place, or The Back Where It’s At? The Face beckons with Upper White Nitro, a usually groomed, no-fall zone. The Backside requires a five-minute hoof up and over to reach the coveted bowl. When my quads start talking, it’s time for a soul-soothing lollygag, easing down the beginner and lower-intermediate trails fringing the resort’s sunset edge, with perhaps an occasional wiggle through the woods. Be forewarned: Sugarloaf doesn’t coddle or pamper. Accommodations are comfortable, but not overly luxe, and dining options are limited. Still, there’s no better way to end the day than with a beer and burger at The Bag, jawing with locals over the pick of the day, or at The Rack, where Olympic gold medalist Seth Wescott displays his memorabilia. Nor is Sugarloaf just another exit off the highway. If traveling with kids, bring plentiful games and movies, or prepare for hours of “are we there yet?” whining. But when you round On-My-Gosh corner—you’ll know it when you see it—it’ll be worth it. Two hours southwest, Sunday River’s convoluted royal bloodline has ties to both Killington, a stepparent and former cousin-by-marriage, and Sugarloaf, a stepsibling with which it maintains a (usually) friendly rivalry. The Rivah wins for ease of access and, thanks to nearby Bethel, a greater choice of dining and lodging. Unlike the ’Loaf’s classic pyramid, Sunday River sprawls across eight connected peaks funneling down to three base areas—a trail map comes in very handy here. Investment in and commitment to snowmaking and grooming helped grow Sunday River from a local hill to a nationally known resort with a season that often lasts into May. And by then, even we’re tired of skiing.
If You GoSTOWE Where to Stay Stone Hill Inn A nine-room romantic getaway, with in-room fireside Jacuzzi tubs, king beds, and in-room massage. This B&B is in the Select Registry and was named one of the top 12 B&Bs in North America by Forbes. 802-253-6282, www.stonehillinn.com Stowe Mountain Lodge Opening April 2008. Houses 139 guestrooms, including one-, two-, and three-bedroom suites. Facilities include a full-service spa, restaurant and 24-hour in-room dining, concierge services, indoor/outdoor pool, fitness center, children’s programs, and 12,100 square feet of meeting space. 802-253-3560, Topnotch Resort and Spa Acclaimed luxury resort with 68 guestrooms and suites and 40 homes on 120 acres. Facilities include world-class spa, fitness center, indoor and heated outdoor pools, hot tub with therapeutic waterfall, Norma’s restaurant, and four indoor tennis courts. 800-451-8686, www.topnotchresort.com Where to Eat Blue Moon Café Cozy upscale atmosphere, regularly changing menu, and nice wine list. 802-253-7006, www.bluemoonstowe.com Michael’s on the Hill Six miles south of Stowe, this restaurant has a sophisticated European menu featuring local ingredients. 802-244-7476, www.gostowe.com
Where to Stay & Eat Birch Ridge Inn A small, exclusive B&B with 10 guest rooms and an excellent restaurant; one mile from Killington. 800-435-8566, www.birchridgeinn.com Killington Grand Resort Hotel Full-service hotel, with renovated suite and studio accommodations, within walking distance of the lifts. Year-round outdoor pool, hot tubs, small spa, fitness center, restaurant, and 25,000 square feet of meeting space. 800-372-2007, www.killington.com
BRETTON WOODS Where to Stay Bretton Arms Inn A 34-room country inn on the Mount Washington Resort property. A more casual and less expensive alternative to the grand hotel. 800-314-1752; www.mountwashingtonresort.com Mount Washington Resort A 200-room grand historic hotel, with indoor and year-round outdoor pools, fitness center, small spa, eight formal and casual dining options, two bars (one with live music), in-hotel store and gift shop, 15,000 square feet of meeting space, horse-drawn sleigh rides, 100 kilometers of groomed cross-country ski trails, snowshoeing, ice skating, and snow tubing. 800-314-1752, www.mountwashingtonresort.com Where to Eat Bretton Arms Dining Room Far more intimate than the hotel’s restaurant, and actually preferred by many visitors for its food quality and service. 800-314-1752, www.brettonarms.com Fabyan’s Station Restaurant & Lounge In the former train depot, a mile from the hotel, casual atmosphere with classic American menu. Mount Washington Hotel, Main Dining Room Make a dinner reservation with the concierge as you head to the slopes, then dine on a four-course dinner, included with the room rate. Gentlemen, jackets required. Ladies, dress accordingly. 800-314-1752, www.mtwashington.com
WILDCAT MOUNTAIN & TUCKERMAN RAVINE Where to Stay & Eat The closest lodging and dining is the Appalachian Mountain Club’s dorm-style Joe Dodge Lodge (603-466-2727; www.outdoors.org), at the base of Mount Washington. Fifteen minutes down Route 16 is Jackson Village, a classic New England village with a covered bridge, central green, and a tumbling river with falls. Two inns worth noting: The Inn at Thorn Hill A classic country inn updated with contemporary amenities, a small spa, and an excellent dining room with a good wine cellar; rates include breakfast and a three-course dinner. 800-289-8990, www.innatthornhill.com The Wentworth A beautifully renovated baby-grand resort, with a full range of accommodations spread out among four buildings; many suites have fireplaces and/or whirlpool tubs. Opt for the rate including breakfast and dinner, served in the elegant dining room. Meeting facilities for up to 50 people. 800-637-0013, www.thewentworth.com
SUGARLOAF
Sugarloaf Mountain Hotel The resort’s fanciest hotel anchoring the base village. The full-service hotel has a small health club with sauna, steam room, therapy tubs, and a fitness center. Services include bellmen and valet parking. Nicest rooms are the multi-level penthouse-suites, with private sauna and hot tub. Conference facilities available. 800-843-5623, www.sugarloaf.com The Timbers The newest and nicest condominium development on the mountain. Most units are trailside. 800-843-5623, www.sugarloaf.com Where to Eat The Bag and Gepetto’s Just steps from each other in Sugarloaf’s base village, these two long-time favorites are independently owned and ultra casual. Both serve lunch and dinner. The Bag: 207-237-2451; Gepetto’s: 207-237-2192, www.gepettosusa.com Bullwinkle’s Mercifully expanded this year, this on-mountain cafeteria morphs into a fine dining experience, with five-course dinner and snowcat transportation, on Saturday nights. 800-THE-LOAF; www.sugarloaf.com D’Ellie’s As the name suggests, it’s a mostly takeout deli with the mountain’s best sandwiches and baked goods. 207-237-2490 One Stanley Avenue About 20 minutes south in Kingfield and open only in winter, One Stanley is the only true fine dining experience in the area. 207-265-5541; www.stanleyavenue.com Porter House It’s worth the 15-minute drive north to Eustis to dine at this local favorite. Located in an old house, the atmosphere is casual, and the fare ranges from pub favorites to full entrees. 207-246-7932; www.porterhousemaine.com
SUNDAY RIVER Where to Stay & Eat Sunday River has two slopeside hotels and gazillions of condos. Nicest area lodging is Bethel Inn Resort, www.bethelinn.com, 800-654-0125, six miles down the road on lovely Bethel’s village green. The full-service resort has both fine and casual dining, health club with pool and spa services, and it’s steps from downtown shops. Onsite conference center with capacity for up to 300 people. Photo Captions:
|
||
|
||
FICKLE MARCH. It teases New Englanders with the first strong rays of sunshine, and then dampens any optimism with cold rains and sleet. Pawtuxa-whatever-his-name-is Phil, that celebrity Pennsylvanian groundhog, might grab the limelight and require shades in early February, but in these parts, he’s considered a fool. Groundhogs in northern New England don’t even dream about emerging until late March. 
But winter holds a long, tight grip on Stowe, as evidenced by the thick wool blankets once given to skiers for the 15-minute ride on that single chair. Although a high-speed quad replaced the single in 1986, skiers still pine for those blankets some days. The mountain—at 4,393 feet, Vermont’s highest peak—collects more than 200 inches of snow (about 16 feet) on average each year. Come spring, all that snow and warmer temperatures mean Stowe—a true skier’s mountain with 2,360 vertical feet of steep terrain—shows its softer side. 
Not that Stowe is all meat and no gravy. Locals love carving hero turns on Perry Merrill, Gondolier, and (don’t let the name fool you) Cliff Trail. Across the valley is Spruce Peak, called “The Sunny Spruce Slopes” when the area opened in 1949. On sun-kissed days, the slopes are part ski hill, part tanning booth. When new, amenity-rich Stowe Mountain Lodge opens this April at Spruce, it will bring ski-in/ski-out luxury to a mountain that once claimed a ski dorm as its closest lodging. 
The centerpiece is the Mount Washington Hotel. Continually refurbished, the colossal Spanish Renaissance hotel opened in 1902 and still maintains its historic grandeur: a quarter-mile-long veranda wrapping the main floor, Tiffany glass in the lobby windows, massive Ionic columns delineating the lobby, and a porte cochere, where valets await like liveried coach drivers. Presidents and kings, movie stars and sports legends have all gathered here for meetings and retreats, most famously in 1944, when the gold standard was set during the International Monetary Conference. These days, the hotel sets the gold standard for New Hampshire lodging. 
On Mount Washington’s east side, Wildcat and Tuckerman Ravine face each other across Pinkham Notch, warlords ready to battle for the crown. Wild, wooly Wildcat earns its name in the depths of winter, when it often snarls at and occasionally bites those who brave it. Come spring, however, the cat’s a kitten. Entirely on National Forest lands, Wildcat lacks facilities other than an aging base lodge, but what it lacks in glamorous amenities, it compensates for on the hill. Long trails for every ability were cut to take advantage of the mountain’s contours and offer fabulous views of Mount Washington. Ski Lynx from summit to base, and we guarantee you’ll be a contented little pussycat. 
My first ’Loaf turns came during Easter school break. Although a beginner, after following my chum Diana and her mountain-brat friends down practically every trail, not only did I improve, but I also left with a tan that rivaled those of friends who had spent their vacations sprawled on Florida beaches. Of course, it was a raccoon-eyed goggle tan that stopped at turtleneck level, but heck, what a souvenir.
KILLINGTON
Where to Stay
